Landscape design plans
A measured plan for the whole property before anybody digs, with grading, planting and hard surfaces resolved on paper.
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A planting plan that survives an Ottawa winter, with soil depth, hardiness and the salt line taken seriously.
Planting is the part of a landscape that either matures into the reason you did the work, or dies in instalments over three years. In this climate the difference is almost never the plants themselves. It is soil depth, hardiness, snow load and road salt, in that order.
Step one: read the site honestly. Sun hours by bed, not by garden. Where snow is piled in winter, because a bed under a 1.5 m snow pile until April is a different growing environment from one three metres away. Where the downspouts go. Where the salt lands. And what the soil actually is: in most of Ottawa, 100 mm of poor topsoil over clay subsoil.
Step two: soil, which is most of the budget that matters. Ottawa clay subsoil is a structural material rather than a growing medium. Beds want 300 to 450 mm of amended topsoil, and for shrubs and small trees deeper again in the planting pit, with the pit wider than deep so roots spread rather than circling. Compost worked into the existing clay at the interface stops a bathtub effect where the pit holds water.
Step three: hardiness, checked against your own address. Ottawa sits in plant hardiness zone 5, and Canada's national plant hardiness map was updated in July 2025, with many areas shifting by half a zone or more. Check your own location on Canada's Plant Hardiness site rather than trusting an old nursery tag or a zone number remembered from a decade ago. Then buy one zone hardier than you need for anything you cannot afford to lose, because a zone rating describes an average winter and not the one in February 2023.
Step four: the salt line. Every driveway, front walk and municipal sidewalk in this city is salted from December to March, and salt-laden snow gets thrown two to three metres. Within that band, use salt-tolerant species and avoid the classics that fail there: cedar hedging, boxwood and most broadleaf evergreens brown out and do not recover. Further into the garden the restriction disappears.
Step five: planting, mulching and the first two years. Planting in Ottawa works best in May and early June, or from late August to early October, avoiding the July heat. Mulch 50 to 75 mm deep and kept off the stems. Then water deeply once a week through the first two summers rather than lightly every day, which is the single most common reason a correctly chosen plant dies anyway.
How long it takes. A planting plan is one to three weeks. Installation of a typical front and back planting scheme is two to five days once beds are prepared. Establishment is two to three seasons, and a shrub bed does not look like the drawing until year three. Anyone promising the drawing in year one is planting too close.
What it costs in 2026. Indicative ranges. A planting plan alone is commonly $300 to $600 for a small project and $700 to $3,000 for a medium one (HomeGuide 2026), or $200 to $600 for a consultation with a plant list and basic sketches. Installed planting for a typical Ottawa front garden is roughly $3,000 to $9,000, and a full front and back scheme $8,000 to $25,000, driven mainly by plant size at purchase and the volume of imported topsoil. Sod is $0.35 to $4 per square foot installed and overseeding $0.10 to $0.80 (RenoQuotes 2026). Ongoing maintenance is commonly $100 to $200 a month. Add 13 per cent HST.
What makes Ottawa planting different. Frost and thaw cycles run all winter here rather than only at the ends of it, so heave lifts newly planted perennials out of the ground in their first winter unless they are planted early enough to root. Snow is a benefit as well as a hazard: consistent cover insulates crowns, and an open, snowless January is harder on plants than a cold one. Deer and rabbits are a genuine constraint in Kanata, Manotick and the rural edge and barely one in the Glebe. And the City protects its street trees: the critical root zone is 10 cm of radius for every 1 cm of trunk diameter, no materials or equipment may go in it, and the ground level around the tree may not be changed (City of Ottawa guide).
Credentials, and what a permit has to do with planting. No licence is needed to plant a garden in Ontario and no provincial certification exists for planting design. The protected title is Landscape Architect, restricted to full OALA members (OALA on the title). Two rules do bite. Removing a tree on your own property may need a City permit, with the urban private-property threshold commonly stated as 30 cm diameter measured 1.3 m above grade, and thresholds differ on larger lots and in the rural area, so confirm your case with the City. And the City's guide prohibits planting noxious weeds and invasive species.
A measured plan for the whole property before anybody digs, with grading, planting and hard surfaces resolved on paper.
Taking a back garden from plan to finished space in one contract, in the order that stops the work being done twice.
A planting plan that survives an Ottawa winter, with soil depth, hardiness and the salt line taken seriously.
Getting water away from the house and off the lot without breaking the rules about where it is allowed to go.
Walls that hold back soil on a frost-heaving clay site, and the height at which a permit and an engineer become mandatory.